Tannins.

Unless you really know wine, you may have only heard of them in relation to red wines. They’re the stuff that gives you that morning-after headache, right?

You’re expecting me to say no here. But, the truth is, tannins just might play a part in headaches — for people with that specific sensitivity. For most of us, though, tannins lend a crucial balance to big red wines such as Cabernet Sauvignon and Nebbiolo. Without them, wine comes off as simple, one-dimensional and uninteresting.

So let’s talk more about what tannins are, why you want them, and how to enjoy them (without getting a headache).

What are Tannins?

Tannins are compounds found in the seeds, skins and stems of grapes. Because red wine is made using a lot of skins — leaching the color out of them is what gives red wine its color — reds tend to be much higher in tannins than white wines. 

Grapes aren’t the only thing with tannins; in fact, they are naturally occurring in a number of foods including tea, coffee, cocoa, wood, nuts and other fruit skins. Even if you’ve never tasted a tannic red wine, you still most likely know the flavor — imagine that bitter quality in a fresh walnut, or how your mouth puckers if you drink a cup of very strong black tea. On the other hand, if you’ve ever had a good cup of strong coffee with a dollop of milk, or a cup of hot cocoa made with just the right amount of sugar, you also know this: tannins add a lovely depth of character to food and drink as long as they’re in balance.

Balance, Balance, Balance!

You’re going to hear me say this many times over:

Every good wine (and certainly all the great ones) has balance. Not balanced? Not good.

A Riesling that’s all sweetness and no acid? Yuck. Chardonnay that tastes like you stuck a stick of butter in your mouth? No, thank you. That weird cherry wine I tried in Virginia that they tried to tell me was best if I ate a piece of chocolate with it? If you have to give me something additional to put in my mouth in order to round out the wine, it’s out of balance. Pass.

This is one reason tannins in wine are a good thing. Balance!

Of course, it’s completely possible for tannins to really slap you in the mouth when drinking a wine that’s heavy with them. The are assertive and hard to ignore, so if that’s not your thing, how can you pick out a wine with less pronounced tannins? The easiest way is to choose one with some age on it. The longer it stays in the bottle, the softer the tannins become, typically, which is one reason why experts recommend you tuck some vintages of certain reds away for a while, to let them mature.

If you open a bottle and find it to be a little too “grippy,” don’t despair. Decanting it and letting it sit for a bit often softens things out some, and running it through an aerator works even better. In fact, an aerator like the one below is a great way to soften tannins that are too strong for your taste. It introduces air into the wine and subtly changes its structure. In fact, an aerator like the one below is a great way to soften tannins that are too strong for your taste. It introduces air into the wine and subtly changes its structure.

And oh yeah, about that headache? The Number One cause of a wine headache has nothing to do with tannins at all, but with dehydration. If you’re drinking more than a couple of glasses, add in one glass of water for every one or two glasses of wine. You’ll feel a lot better in the morning if you do!

Here’s a list of commonly tannic wines and other reds that aren’t known for their tannins at all. Taste a few and see what suits you!

Typically Tannic Red Wines

Cabernet Sauvignon
Bordeaux
Nebbiolo (Barolo and Barbaresco)
Syrah

Red Wines Usually Light on Tannins

Pinot Noir
Beaujolais
Zinfandel
Grenache
Merlot